Tuesday, January 31, 2012

Underhill T-400 Tracker Traveling Adjustable Speed Control Irrigation Machine 1-Inch Female Hose Connection Anchor Stake and Auto Shut-off

!±8± Underhill T-400 Tracker Traveling Adjustable Speed Control Irrigation Machine 1-Inch Female Hose Connection Anchor Stake and Auto Shut-off


Rate : | Price : $1,551.47 | Post Date : Jan 31, 2012 21:21:07
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The Tracker T-400 allows you to economically irrigate large areas from 3/4 acre to 2 acres where an underground irrigation system would be too costly or impractical. Ideal for athletic fields, cemeteries or any other large area with a water supply. This unit can irrigate an entire football field in just two passes! Operation: Unit is powered by water to pull itself along a nylon cable. Tracker automatically shuts down when it reaches the cable's end. Simply position the unit where you want to begin irrigating and connect the Tracker to the water supply with a heavy-duty 1-inch I.D. hose. Unroll and anchor the nylon cable to the end point, set the speed control (which controls the application rate) and turn on the water. Requires at least 9 gpm at 50 p.s.i., which is typically available from a 1-inch or larger pipeline. Larger areas may require up to 15 gpm at 85 p.s.i. As a guideline, this unit can typically irrigate about 2/3 acre in eight hours. Features: The Tracker can pull up to 360 ft. of hose, allowing for a maximum irrigation length of 400 ft. Full- or part-circle sprinkler with a No. 6 (8.8-gpm) and a No. 7 (15-gpm) nozzle for varying watering requirements. Includes a galvanized anchor stake, 360 ft. of nylon cable and 1-inch brass quick couplers (for hose). 22-inchHx33-inchLx22-inchW. Weighs 80 lbs. Made in Germany.

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Saturday, January 7, 2012

14 More Tips For Happy Tomato Plants

!±8± 14 More Tips For Happy Tomato Plants

Just dropping in for a few more fascinating facts and useful tomato tips.

Indeterminate tomato vines can grow up to 50 feet and live for years in the right climate. Northern Minnesota is not the right climate to support such growth. Tomato plants absorb water and nutrients through their leaves, so give them a good (gentle) spritz once a week or so, in the early morning (never in the late afternoon or evening) until they are thoroughly soaked. Caution: If it has rained, don't manually top water. Wet plants spread disease, so only top water if you really need to do so. To encourage bees to visit your tomato garden, inter-plant yellow snapdragons and yellow marigolds. The bees are attracted to the snaps or marigolds and stop off at the tomato blossoms, too, thereby pollinating the tomatoes on their rounds of the garden. This results in greater yields for you. If you're really worried about pollination, give your plants a gentle shake every day when flowers open up until they begin to set fruit. This helps with self-pollination, or at least my grandmother thought so. Prune your tomato plants early in the season by using a clean, sharp bypass shears. Please don't just pinch off the leaves with your fingernails unless you've just gotten a new French manicure. Cut off the bottom few leaves and remove suckers (small branches growing in the node of another branch). Don't over-prune, and stop pruning once your plants are setting fruit. Night temperatures are almost as important for setting blossoms (and increasing yields) as proper nitrogen fertilization. Keep your tomato babies warm at night by covering with clear plastic or mini-greenhouses (milk jugs with the tops cut off) until night temperatures warm up to a steady 50 degrees. If you live in a cold area with well water, keep in mind that your water may be 40 degrees or less coming out of the well. Do you tomato babies a favor in the spring and water them with tepid water instead of straight from the hose. Keep your tomatoes well watered until late August (or near the end of the growing season in your area). After that, water less because dryer conditions cause the fruit to ripen more quickly. Don't fertilize your plants after the first week of August because that encourages plant growth at the expense of fruit set. Overfertilization causes many problems, so just stop feeding your tomatoes too much. Some green tomatoes will ripen after you pick them and some won't. About two weeks after they are done growing, tomatoes start to lose their chlorophyl ripen into the tastier red color. If you store green ones in the hope they will ripen, choose lighter colored, larger green tomatoes. Use smaller, darker ones in recipes. Store green or immature red tomatoes in a cool place (50-60 degrees), not the refrigerator. Pop them into a paper bag and keep them dry. They don't need light to ripen. Root prune your tomato plants at the end of the season before you dig them up to hasten ripening. Take a spade and make a six inch deep circle all around your plants about a foot away from the base. This cuts off the top roots and and jump starts ripening before you would normally dig up the plants for the season. Always wash your gardening tools each time you are done using them. A thorough rinse with the hose is sufficient. At the end of the season, wash all tools, stakes, cages, trellises, etc. with bleach solution (10 percent bleach, 90 percent water), dry thoroughly, and store properly. Mulch is your friend. Want to go cheap on the mulch? Use newspaper (no glossy pages please). Just lay it down around your plants and in between rows, and replace when the paper has composted beyond usefulness. Straw is cheap for some people; clean bark or wood chips cost a little more; or you can spend a million dollars on the latest top of the line mulch just by asking your friendly greenhouse associate. The fourth Wednesday in August in Valencia, Spain is reserved for the annual La Tomatina festival, during which time more than 220,400 pounds of tomatoes are thrown by the crowds--at each other.

These tips will help you make the most of your tomato harvest!


14 More Tips For Happy Tomato Plants

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Monday, December 12, 2011

How to Install a Stone, Paver Or Brick Garden Path Or Patio

!±8± How to Install a Stone, Paver Or Brick Garden Path Or Patio

Pavers, brick, and stone can be dry-laid over a bed of sand by a homeowner without difficulty. The installation process is fairly simple and is forgiving. In areas where no frost heave occurs, you can lay large stones directly over compact soil if need be. Then sweep sand between the stone to help keep them from shifting.

Here we offer a basic step-by-step way to install stones, pavers, and bricks to make a walkway, patio, or garden path. I will refer to all concrete pavers, bricks or stone as simply- stone, to save space.

The simplest form of stone paving is laying flat stones directly on the ground. Loosen the dirt so each stone sits firmly and is supported evenly underneath. Grass or ground cover grows between the stones and you mow right over them. This method is appropriate for rustic, natural settings. To help drainage, spread a half-inch layer of sand over the compacted dirt before laying the stone.

For a formal look or design and to get better drainage, lay stone in compacted sand over crushed stone. This requires more work, but you'll get a flatter, more even paving with joints of sand between the stones instead of vegetation. The sand compensates for irregularities in the ground. Once the bed is in place, laying the stones is a lot like doing a puzzle. Try different stone combinations until you get the smallest gap between joints. If using pavers or bricks, the pattern will have been pre-determined.

TOOLS AND MATERIALS YOU MAY REQUIRE - Stones, pavers, or bricks, tamper, gloves, landscape fabric, safety goggles, tape measure, rubber mallet, string, plywood, wood stakes, 48-inch level, small sledgehammer, pencil, framing square, brick hammer, garden hose, pitching chisel, spade, broom, sand, gravel, and kneepads.

BASIC INSTRUCTIONS: The most difficult step in laying stone is preparing the bed. Normally a two-inch bed of sand is enough if your stones are the same thickness. If the thickness varies, you may need a deeper sand bed. To keep weeds down, use landscape fabric. If your soil does not drain well, consider a four-inch bed of gravel under the sand. Use landscape fabric between gravel and sand when using this method. If your soil drains poorly and you are in a cold climate, consider an even thicker gravel base.

When ordering materials, have your measurements with you so the dealer can help figure your needs. If you are NOT making your own stone, brick or pavers with concrete molds, purchase 5-10 percent over what you need to allow for breakage, cutting mistakes, and future repairs.

LAYING STONE IN PACKED SAND:

1. Lay out Your Area- Set stakes to mark the proposed edge of the patio or walk. Mark the outside corners a bit beyond the proposed edge. Use a framing square to confirm that the corners form right angles. For free-form shapes, lay out the curves using garden hose. Now go around the outline, sinking a spade into the earth to score the perimeter. Once you've scored the ground, remove the stakes, string, or hose.

2. Excavate Soil- Set your stones about 1 inch above the ground. To do this, excavate to a depth that equals: the thickness of your stone minus 1 inch. Then figure 2 inches for the sand bed, plus 4 inches for a gravel base if one is needed. Remove all grass, roots and large rocks from the area to be finished. Now place the gravel if using any. Tamp it down with a hand or mechanical tamper.

3. Install a Weed Barrier- Install a layer of landscape fabric on the excavation or on top of the gravel if used. Overlap by 4 to 6 inches. Landscape fabric is designed to prevent weeds while still allowing water to drain through.

4. Spread and Screed the Sand- Top the landscape fabric with about 2 inches of regular construction sand. Tamp it down, and use a straight length of 2x4 to screed the sand level.

5. Install the Stones- Starting in one corner, place the stones on the sand and tamp them into place using a rubber mallet. Make sure that they are solidly bedded, level, and do not wobble. If necessary, dig out sand to make the bedding more stable. Arrange the straight edges toward the outside perimeter and fit any irregular edges together. Leave a half-inch space between the stones. If using pavers or bricks, butt them against each other, with a quarter to a half-inch space between them. If you made your own pavers or bricks with concrete molds to save money, the angle of the sides needed to enable demolding will automatically give you the spacing when butted tightly against each other.

TIP: If you have to kneel on the sand to lay stone, use a piece of plywood to keep from creating depressions. After you have laid a few stones, kneel on the stone instead. Use a 4-foot-long level to maintain the paving level.

6. Cut and Shape the Stones- Some stones may need to be trimmed for a better fit. First, hold the stone to be cut over those in place and mark the cutting line with a pencil or crayon. For small cuts, trim using a brick hammer. For large cuts, score the marked line with a pitching chisel and hammer. Gently tap off the unwanted piece using the hammer. With pavers or brick you may not need to trim anything if you've pre-planned the dimensions of your project.

7. Fill the Joints with Sand- When all stones are in place, sweep the joints full of sand. Wet the surface with a fine mist from your hose to compact the sand, then sweep more sand into the joints until they are full. Fill the joints again in a few days when the sand settles.

Now stand back and admire your work!


How to Install a Stone, Paver Or Brick Garden Path Or Patio

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